Dacor dishwasher “PC” error code remains undocumented in official service manuals and tech resources, likely representing a misread display segment (such as “CL” for door lock or “PF” for power failure) or a rare model-specific fault not covered in public diagnostics.
Dacor premium dishwashers (ED24, ID24, PD24, MDW24 series) primarily use F-series fault codes (F1–F9) displayed via LEDs or control panels during failures like drain blockages, heater issues, or sensor faults.
Unlike budget brands, Dacor integrates floor guard leak protection and Factory Test Mode (FTM) for precise troubleshooting.
Dacor error code system explained
Dacor employs a hierarchical fault system:
- LED beeps/flashes signal immediate issues (3 beeps = drain fault).
- F-codes appear during self-test or persistent errors.
- No alphanumeric “PC” exists in EDW/IDW/PDW tech sheets or service PDFs.
Display quirks: Segments can appear as “PC” when dirty, backlit poorly, or during partial power glitches.
What “PC” likely means (and isn’t)
Top misreads:
- “CL” (Close & Latch): MDW24 models; door striker misaligned or latch switch failed. Door must click twice.
- “PF” (Power Failure): Cycle interrupted; power fluctuation.
- “PC” as “Clean Filter”: Rare third-party aftermarket panels (not OEM).
Not: Samsung-style diverter error or generic overflow Dacor uses F2/F10 equivalents.
Verify: Power off 5 min; inspect display close-up during startup.
Complete Dacor F‑code directory
| Code/Indicator | Fault Type | Primary Causes | Diagnostic Steps |
|---|---|---|---|
| F1 | Drain pump failure | Clogged impeller, hose kink, pump seized | Spin impeller manually; flush hose |
| F2 | Inlet valve open too long | Stuck solenoid, board short | Fill test (power off); valve ohms 1100Ω |
| F3 | Low water pressure | Inlet screen clogged, supply <20psi | Clean screen; verify 120°F hot water |
| F4 | Pressure switch no signal | Wiring loose, switch failed (3-wire) | Continuity test all 3 positions |
| F5 | Control board error | Voltage spike, component failure | Power cycle; board LEDs during FTM |
| F9 | Heater circuit fault | No flow, element open (11–13Ω), therm fuse | Resistance check; flow test |
| 3 beeps/red | Drain system block | Sink backup, garbage disposal clog | High loop check; disposal reset |
| CL | Door not secure | Striker bent, gasket debris, microswitch | Realign door; clean gasket track |
| PF | Power/cycle interrupt | Outage, door opened mid-cycle | Restart cycle |
Expanded “PC” troubleshooting protocol
Step 1: Basic reset
- Unplug 10 min (discharges capacitors).
- Run water 2 min at sink (refills heater).
- Power on; select Normal cycle.
Step 2: Display inspection
- Clean panel with glass cleaner (no abrasives).
- Test in dim light vs bright (segment bleed).
- Enter FTM (below) to force all codes.
Step 3: Door/latch deep dive
- Remove kickplate; check striker adjustment (1/16″ protrusion).
- Test latch microswitches (0Ω closed).
- Inspect hinge springs (worn = poor seal).
Step 4: Electrical check
- Verify 120V at L1/N (door closed).
- Control board LEDs: Green=OK, Red=F5 imminent.
Factory Test Mode (FTM) full procedure
EDWH/IDWH models:
- Exit Secure Mode: Hold key symbol 3 sec (beeps).
- Start FTM: Delay + Sani Rinse buttons (door open).
- Close door: LEDs flash 15 sec, then:
- Drain test (30s): Listen for pump.
- Fill test (60s): Check inlet hum.
- Wash/heat (300s): Feel tub warming.
- Dispenser (5s): Detergent door clicks.
- Final drain (30s).
Failure flags: F4 (no pressure signal), F9 (no heat rise), F5 (board).
MDW24 variant: Power + Start/Stop (3 beeps confirms).
Leak detection (floor guard) deep dive
Activates as: Continuous drain + beeps (mimics “PC” if display faulty).
Float switch location: Base pan center (magnetic reed type).
Dry procedure:
- Pull unit out 6″; tilt 45° over towels.
- Sponge base; vacuum float area.
- Run 30 min empty (checks seals).
Root leaks: Heater O-ring (F9 trigger), sump cracks, tub weld failures (rare).
Advanced diagnostics for pros
Pressure switch test (F4):
textPosition 1: Dry tub → NC (closed)
Position 2: Mid-fill → NO (open)
Position 3: Full tub → NC (closed)
3-wire switch; multimeter across terminals.
Heater circuit (F9):
- Element: 11–13Ω (120V, 1000W).
- Hi-limit: 0Ω below 195°F.
- Thermistor: 10kΩ @ 77°F.
Board test: FTM with case off watch relay clicks.
Parts and service reality
OEM availability: Dacor parts via Samsung (post-2017 acquisition); 25–40% premium markup.
Common repairs:
- F1 pump assembly: $180–250.
- F9 heater kit: $220–320.
- F5 board: $400–600.
DIY limits: FTM access requires panel removal; high voltage present.
Model‑specific notes
| Model | Panel Type | Codes Shown | FTM Access |
|---|---|---|---|
| ED24 | LED numeric | F1–F9 | Delay+Sani |
| ID24 | Touch LCD | F + verbal | Power+Options |
| MDW24 | Basic LED | CL/PF only | Power+Start |
| PD24 | Custom | Service mode | Tech key req. |
Prevention: Premium maintenance
- Weekly: Pre-rinse heavy soil; use powder (not gel).
- Monthly: CF mode (filter clean) hot vinegar cycle.
- Quarterly: Inlet screen flush; door gasket wipe.
- Annual: Pro leak check; heater element test.
FAQs: Dacor dishwasher PC code
Is “PC” a real Dacor code?
No likely CL/PF misread or display fault.
F4 pressure switch DIY fixable?
Yes: $25 part, test with multimeter.
3 beeps but no F-code?
Drain fault; clear disposal/hose first.
FTM stuck mid-test?
Power cycle; repeat (indicates F5 board).
Heater F9 on hot supply?
Flow restriction clean spray arms/inlet.
Samsung owns Dacor same parts?
Boards/sensors yes; chassis different.
Warranty service?
2–5 years heater/seals; authorized techs only.
